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 Beirut: Rebuilding Diplomacy in a New Beirut To most people, the name "Beirut" conjures up images of the country as it was during its long years of war and civil conflict, from 1975 to 1991. But for those serving in Beirut in 1998, the reality has changed. Although security for American personnel remains tight and families are not permitted to reside at post, life here is not the Apocalypse Now setting that one might imagine. On the other hand, on compound and off, those posted in Beirut remain surrounded by very tight security.
Everyone assigned to the embassy lives and works on the compound. Being surrounded by razor wire and armed guards can be a little depressing, but most people adapt in creative ways. The compound itself is somewhat small and terraced into a steep hillside, so you can leave your StairMaster at home! Housing on the compound is a hodgepodge of small apartments created out of larger apartments. The compound boasts a pool, fitness room, snack bar, tennis court and the world-famous Bunker Bar, all in frequent use. There are also the sobering remains of the East Beirut Annex, bombed in 1984. The mission staff is now able to leave the compound more frequently than in the past. The administrative office occasionally organizes off-compound excursions. Groups from the embassy go grocery shopping, see movies and visit cultural and historical sites outside the city about once a month. They are always accompanied by armed bodyguards and travel in caravans of fully armored vehicles. The Lebanese are kind, welcoming and hospitable, and often invite embassy staff members to their homes or out for dinner at restaurants. All trips have to be planned at least 24 hours in advance because of tight security arrangements, so people sacrifice spontaneity and learn to plan ahead. The city of Beirut has gone through a reconstruction boom since the war. Hotels, stores, apartment buildings and restaurants are going up everywhere. Downtown, the Lebanese can eat at J. Paul's, the Hard Rock Cafe, Kentucky Fried Chicken, Pizza Hut or Mr. Donut if they want, and the theaters show first-run movies like Titanic and As Good As It Gets. Many parts of the country, however, are off-limits for security reasons, and this prevents the embassy staff from seeing much of the countryside. The embassy is experiencing its own reconstruction boom. From 1991, when the embassy reopened, until about 10 months ago, most operations were on hold or run by a skeleton crew. Most officers posted in Beirut were responsible for more than one portfolio. But since mid-1997, the embassy's diplomatic activity has expanded slowly but significantly, as has the mission staff. A military officer arrived in February 1997 to head the Office of Military Cooperation; the U.S. Agency for International Development's mission director arrived in May 1997, and in March 1998, the consular section reopened to offer routine services to American citizens, which required a full-time consular officer for the first time in a long while. This summer the embassy will welcome a public affairs officer and economic/commercial officer. Neither position has existed in Beirut for years. Now that the restriction on using U.S. passports to travel to Lebanon has expired, the embassy staff has found that many Americans never left the country, even during the worst of the conflict. Since the consular section reopened, these people are now appearing at the embassy's doors to renew long-expired passports, register their children and find out about taxes and voting. They tell the staff that they're happy the United States is rebuilding its presence in Beirut, and they're proud to be a part of that presence. The embassy staff is equally proud to be in Lebanon at this time of major transition in Lebanese-American relations, and--in spite of the Beirut Air Brigade, Gumby suits and bodyguards, as well as family separations and compound fever--will look back on their time in Lebanon as rewarding work that was well worth doing. The author is a consular officer in Beirut.
By Maggie Teen
As an era of reconstruction has dawned in Lebanon, the U.S. Information Service continues to promote educational and cultural programs aimed at strengthening the ties between the American and Lebanese people. This is clearly shown through the cultural and social events the ambassador attends in Lebanon, and through our Lebanese grantees whom we consider as ambassadors from Lebanon to the United States. In addition to a growing number of businessmen, Beirut is once again attracting experts in various fields from the United States and other countries to participate in conferences organized by Lebanese officials and the private sector. U.S. and other diplomats are taking an active part in many of these events. Musicians and artists have begun visiting Lebanon as well to perform to an enthusiastic Lebanese audience that has been waiting years for this sign of renewal. It is well known that the energetic media in Lebanon play a major role in forming public opinion. USIS works closely with the press and with nongovernment organizations to help them better present and appreciate American values. Arranging press conferences for the growing number of U.S. officials who visit Lebanon, especially since the lifting of the passport restrictions, gives American officials a wider scope to talk about the peace process and American-Lebanese relations. In addition to arranging interviews for the ambassador with the press, USIS distributes press releases and transcripts and provides daily guidance to local and foreign journalists. USIS Beirut will soon have its first public affairs officer since 1984, and expects USIS activities to grow.
The author is a cultural affairs assistant in Beirut. |
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ll official personnel travel into and out of Beirut is on U.S. Army helicopters--the "Beirut Air Bridge" from Larnaca, Cyprus. There's nothing quite like trying to get into a rubber, cold-water exposure suit--called "Gumby" suits for obvious reasons--for the flight. You have to wiggle into them like a pair of tight jeans and have no fingers in the lobster claw-like gloves to zip and fasten the thing. The whole ensemble of suit, helmet and flotation vest makes you feel like a 2-year-old in a snowsuit.
